Style rebels Vetements sew up haute couture

Posted on 11 june 2016 by Admin   |  Fashion Clothes, Women 11

The result was an attention-hogging show that left couple of indifferent.

Social media was abuzz afterwards with the red velour tracksuits with "Juicy" selected in crystals across the bum, massive dungaree-aprons and hoodies with shrunken hoods.

The show began with the large coats that have actually ended up being Vetements calling card, brimming with their overlong "gorilla sleeves".

Designer Demna Gvasalia rolled out a series of disconcerting, eye-catching brand-new tropes, pulling up his perennial thigh-high boots so they often reached to the waist and beyond.

He even appeared to be trying to produce a previously uncharted erotic zone midway between the navel and the breast bone by pulling diamond-shaped peep holes in his Comme des Garcons shirts.

Putting the boot in

Striking was how Georgian-born Gvasalia-- who fans hail for resisting the "system"-- set out to blur the difference between high and low end brand names with Dr Martens boots and Manolo Blahnik stilettos sharing the same runway.

" The idea was to deal with brand names and their specialized suppliers," he informed press reporters backstage after the show.

" Vetements unsubscribes to the challenging production cycle that has actually been compelled upon numerous designers," the label said in a declaration, referring to the punishing turnaround times developers increasingly must adhere to.

" Trailblazing brands-- pacesetters of their time-- are still pertinent today. Not only because of their acclaimed designs, but also because of years of refining material and production techniques," it added.

While lots of questioned whether Vetements' spring men and women's show was actually haute couture, couple of doubted that it was shock to the increasingly mad style system which has seen numerous designers complain of burnout.

Unlike most of their peers who produce a number of collections, Vetements-- founded by 35-year-old Gvasalia and his more youthful sibling Guram only 2 years back-- make just 2 a year so their clothes can invest longer in the stores.

However, in one crucial respect the Gvasalias did bow to pressure. Having actually been pilloried for the absence of black faces in their previous shows, this one was more diverse, triggering Elle publication's Kenya Hunt to tweet, "Nice to finally see some individuals of color on the Vetements runway."

Another post-Soviet creator likewise satisfied Sunday, with the Kazakh designer Ulyana Sergeenko using suspender belts worn over clothing to symbolize "Khrushchev's thaw" in the 1960s.

In the 2 other highlights of the opening day, Donatella Versace unveiled an untypically demure 1950s affected collection of shimmering dress that still managed to flaunt the legs.

And Yuima Nakazato-- best understood for his creations for the vocalist Lady Gaga-- ended up being the first Japanese designer to show in haute couture for more than a decade.

His futuristic feathery ensembles utilized colored layers of PVC cut by maker and then "treated as origami".

"Combining technology with craftsmanship might be the future of couture," he told AFP later on.